FREE
The How-To-Order Net Book

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					 	The Great Internet
			"How should I order something over the net?"
							   Book

					Compiled by Mark Manning
			Created by everyone on the net (Thanks guys & gals!)

				Last Update Applied on 6/23/2005
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Set your tabstops to four(4) in order to read this.

Welcome to the "How should I order something over the net?"
book!  This book was started by myself after several times of
having to go through and help people out who had made a
transaction and had been ripped off. The research I did on
this subject comprised several sources and I am presenting
this information here for everyone to read.

Do not think that this is a COMPLETE book.  These things never
are.  I'm still waiting for information from DHL and a number
of other carriers (even the US Mail), but it is a start and
I will expand upon it as time goes by and I get the brochures
I've asked for.

Further, as with anything one person writes, this is based
upon my experiences in dealing over the net with people.  I've
asked for, and received a few, experiences from other people
on the net.  These have reflected the same kinds of experiences
(with differences of course) and I feel that, with my talking
with other agencys (such as the US Post Office), this book is
fairly accurate in its scope.

Enjoy it, let me know your feelings on the book, but most
importantly - IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY - SAY IT IN A
NON-DEGRADING MANNER AND WITH WHAT YOU FEEL IS THE CORRECT
WAY TO APPROACH A GIVEN SUBJECT.  What I mean is: Don't just
say "You're &#^%$&^ WRONG!", say something like: "You are
wrong about <blah>.  The correct way to do this is <blah blah
blah>." -or- "I believe there is a better way to do <blah>:
<blah blah blah>."  All flame bait will be tossed in the bit
bucket and promptly removed.  The same holds true for joking
flames.  I've got too much else to do to wade through the tons
of garbage flamers tend to create.

Send comments to: Simulacron I

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In the beginning....

After having read several books and having been given some
e-mail, I have the corrected version below:

In the beginning there were no mail carriers per se.  There
were, instead, individual companies which delivered what were
called "scripts" and packages.  After the Civil War though,
it was determined that an inordinate amount of price gouging
was going on and the US Mail division was formed.  Today we
have many different types of mail carriers in the United States
and each has it's own way of shipping things.  I decided to
compile how each of these carriers worked and to pass on this
information to everyone else as soon as I had that information.
Therefore, as each of these company's sends a brochure on how
to handle things through them, their brochures will be condensed
and put into this listing.

1.	The US Mail
	A.	The US Mail is still the largest mail carrier within
	the United States.  Only a short while ago, the carriers of
	the US Mail began destroying some of the packages which they
	carried.  As seen on 60 minutes (CBS), people whom postal
	people did not like began finding their packages crushed,
	ground up, and otherwise destroyed.  Luckily, the US Mail
	administrators decided to look into the matter and some (if
	not a lot) of these offending postal workers no longer work
	for the US Post Office.  At least, I have noticed a marked
	increase in the number of times I have received a package and
	it was in very good shape.  Further, in the past few years,
	the US Mail service has begun expanding upon the services
	which they offer until now the US Mail service offers the
	same kinds of services which the other carriers have been
	offering for several years (such as overnight packages).

2.	UPS
	A.	Corrections to what I had originally for UPS (via word
	of mouth from UPS workers) was incorrect.  The correct
	information was sent to me by someone at UPS itself.  It
	is presented here.

	"First, UPS was not founded by former US Mail workers. Jim
	Casey founded the precursor to UPS (Amercian Messenger
	Service) in 1907 in Seattle. The initial business was done by
	telephone. People would call the office with a message which
	was then given to a bicycle messenger who would then deliver
	the message to the recipient. The service expanded into other
	areas such as running errands for customers.

	AMS began to take its modern incarnation when the messengers
	were used to deliver parcels from department stores to
	customers homes so that they wouldn't have to carry them
	themselves. That business evolved into what UPS is today.

	Perhaps your most serious mistake is your idea that
	UPS drivers are paid according to the number of packages
	they deliver. This is absolutely false. All UPS drivers
	are members of the IBT (International Brotherhood of
	Teamsters) which negotiates contracts with UPS. UPS
	drivers are paid an hourly wage. I'm not sure, but I
	think they start at around 17.50 an hour. (Notes:The
	original statement [that UPS drivers were paid on a
	per package basis] was told to myself by a UPS driver
	when I was collecting this information.)

	On the other hand FedEx and RPS drivers are not even
	employees of their respective companies. Rather they
	are contractors who are paid on a per piece basis.
	Drivers for those companies must buy their own trucks
	(which they usually lease from the company) and provide
	their own benefits.

	Perhaps your third misconception is that drivers leave
	packages because they are paid per package (which I
	have already explained is false). This procedure is
	known as Driver Release (DR). DR is only allowed in
	certain areas.  There are highly specific procedures
	in place to ensure the safety of DRs. UPS DILP personnel
	frequently audit UPS drivers to make sure that they
	are using the procedures for safe DR. Regardless,
	there will always be some drivers who refuse to follow
	the specified delivery procedures." (Notes:  Packages
	delivered by UPS to my house are, because both my wife
	and I work, often times placed behind bushes, left on
	the front doorstep, or (rarely) given to our neighbors
	to hold.  This year alone we have been sent and never
	received four packages via UPS.  One package was
	discovered while mowing the grass.  Luckily I stopped
	in time. :-) )

	Included hereinafter is a condensed history of UPS
	which was provided by a very nice person at UPS itself:

	Key Dates in UPS History

	1907
	In August, the American Messenger Company opens for
	business, furnishing messengers for errand service in
	Seattle, Washington.  Founded by an enterprising
	19-year-old and a handful of teenagers, the company
	quickly builds a reputation with the advertised slogan,
	"Best Service, Lowest Rates."

	1913
	A merger with a competitor changes the corporate name
	to Merchants Parcel Delivery, reflecting the company's
	growing concentration on retail packages. Scheduled
	consolidated delivery service is inaugurated with the
	purchase of the company's first delivery vehicle - a
	Model T Ford.

	1919
	Business expands to Oakland, California and the name
	of the firm changes to United Parcel Service (UPS).
	In succeeding years, UPS expands to other cities along
	the West Coast of the United States.

	1929
	UPS begins an air delivery service on the West Coast.
	"United Air Express" ends operations in 1931 due to
	a depressed U.S. economy.

	1930
	Three stores in New York City turn over their delivery
	operations to UPS. Over the next several years, service
	is opened in major urban areas throughout the Easter
	and Midwester United States.

	1953
	Department stores cut back on retail delivery services
	after WWII.  UPS looks for growth opportunities in
	common carrier service and begins the long process of
	obtaining authority to serve all points within and
	between every state in the country. It competes with
	the U.S.Postal Service for the right to move packages
	for manufacturers, wholesalers, retailers and the
	public at large. The year also marks the rebirth of
	UPS air service. Major cities on the East and West
	coasts are connected by the two-day service.

	1975
	UPS becomes the first company to serve every address
	in the 48 contiguous Unites States. The first UPS
	operation outside the U.S. is established in Ontario,
	Canada.

	1976
	Service is initiated within West Germany.

	1980
	UPS 2nd Day Air (formerly Blue Label Air) is expanded
	to include every address in the 48 states and the
	island of Oahu, Hawaii.

	1982
	Entry into the overnight air delivery business begins
	with UPS Next Day Air offered in 24 major metropolitan
	areas; rapid domestic and international air expansion
	follows.

	1985
	UPS Next Day Air delivery service is expanded to
	include all addresses in 49 states, Puerto Rico and
	Anchorage, Alaska.  UPS International Air service
	begins between the Unites States and six countries in
	Europe.

	1987
	UPS becomes the first package delivery company to
	deliver to every address in the 50 United States and
	Puerto Rico. UPS International Air service is now
	available to most of Western Europe, Japan and parts
	of Canada. The UPS Airline is born.

	1988
	A major expansion of UPS International Air service
	extends the delivery network to 41 countries in North
	America, Europe and the Pacific Rim.

	1989
	UPS expands international delivery network to more
	that 180 countries, including East and West Europe,
	the Americas, the Middle East, Africa and the Pacific
	Rim. UPS acquires eight European package delivery
	companies, and adds ten 757 package freighter aircraft
	to the fleet.

	1990
	Acquires Cuallado, S.A., a Spanish package delivery
	company; an interest in a Bermuda delivery company;
	and the express-parcels division of Seabourne Express
	Ltd., a U.K.  company with valuable transborder
	operating authorities. UPS also forms Unistar Air
	Cargo with Yamato Transport, Ltd. of Japan to serve
	the growing trade between the U.S. and Japan.  UPS
	begins flying its own aircraft to Asia, acquires an
	all-cargo route between Houston and three Mexican
	cities, and begins building a new air hub in Ontario,
	California. In addition, the company enters into
	agreements with Rolls-Royce Tay to re-engine its
	727-100's and with Boeing for 25 new 757 package
	freighters. UPS begins testing MaxiCode, a new package
	encoding system, and introduces a 10:30 a.m.  guarantee
	for its UPS Next Day Air service, as well as Worldwide
	Expedited Package Service, a service option for
	international shippers that offers longer transit
	times at significantly lower rates.

	1991
	Introduction of our new Corporate Mission and Strategy.

	Introduction of new services: Saturday Delivery,
	Delivery Confirmation, and 2nd Day Air Letter. UPS
	announces promising results from its two-year experiment
	with natural gas vehicles in New York City and is
	ranked number one in Transportation for the seventh
	year in a row by Fortune magazine. Begins nationwide
	deployment of a hand-held computer, known as the DIAD
	(Delivery Information Acquisition Device), that captures
	all delivery and pickup information, including
	signatures.

3.	FedEx
	A.	Federal Express (FedEx) was created by a business man
	who understood that businesses needed their packages there
	the next day.  They have been (and still are) one of the most
	consistent, state of the art, carriers around.  They also
	cost more than any other carrier when it comes to shipping.
	Small packages cost (on the average) $10.00.  Prices go up
	from there. If you positively, have to have something
	overnight - FedEx will get it there.  Not only will they get
	it there, but it will be in almost exactly the same condition
	you sent it in. What I mean is - the only differences in the
	CONTAINER will be that there may be stamps or other such
	things on the container when you get it.  I, for one, have
	never had FedEx hurt a container (ie:Tear it, crush, or
	anything else).

4. DHL
	A.	DHL is another delivery service similar to FedEx.  They
	too state that they can deliver world wide.  I have only had
	a few parcels delivered via DHL.  All arrived in good shape
	with no signs of scuffs or scratches.

5.	Emery
	A.	Emery air services is another air carrier similar to
	FedEx.  I have never had anything shipped via Emery, but from
	what I have heard (and seen) of things shipped via Emery it
	is every bit as good as FedEx.

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Where to get information...

1.	The US Mail now has a number (local to each city) which
	you can call to get information about various things.  It is
	called the "Postal Answer Line" and is a touch tone phone
	automated phone messaging set-up.  The numbers are as
	follows:

	Atlanta GA							767-0305
	Austin Tx							929-1253
	Baltimore MD						332-1747
	Birmingham Al						521-0557
	Boston Ma							451-9922
	Brooklyn/Queens NY					522-7530
	Buffalo NY							854-7241
	Charleston WV						340-2789
	Charlotte NC						394-8865
	Chicago IL (ZIP 606)				427-5960
		S. Suburban (ZIPs 604-605)		563-2059
		N. Suburban (ZIPs 600-603)		451-5471
	Cincinnati OH						381-3384
	City of Industry CA			  (818) 369-2141
	Cleveland OH						443-4741
	Columbia SC							731-8235
	Columbus OH							469-0305
	Dallas TX							760-4300
	Denver CO							297-6100
	Des Moines IA						283-7600
	Detroit MI							961-4950
	Ft. Lauderdale FL					735-3596
	Ft. Worth TX						625-0700
	Grand Rapids MI						776-0223
	Greenboro NC						271-2066
	Harrisburg PA						231-4477
	Honolulu HI							422-7070
	Houston TX							226-3292
	Indianapolis IN						464-6520
	Jackson MS							352-8777
	Jacksonville FL						366-4800
	Kansas City MO						421-5272
	Las Vegas NV						361-3444
	Lehigh Valley PA					Future
	Little Rock AR						945-6606
	Long Beach CA				  (800) 734-5582
	Long Island NY				  (800) 624-5225
		(ZIPs 115, 117, 118 & 119)
	Los Angeles CA				  (213) 587-6142
	Louisville KY						451-2905
	Memphis TN							521-2336
	Miami FL							599-0166
	Milwaukee WI						271-8897
	Minneapolis MN						349-9100
	Nashville TN						885-9378
	New Jersey-Camden County			933-4240
	New Orleans LA						589-1360
	New York NY							330-4000
	Newark NJ							596-1711
	Norfolk VA							640-8777
	Northern Virginia (ZIPs 202-223)	698-6360
	Oakland CA							268-8871
	Oklahoma City OK					278-6391
	Omaha NE							345-6245
	Philadelphia PA						382-9201
	Phoenix AZ							231-0892
	Pittsburgh PA						322-1321
	Richmond VA							321-8777
	Rochester NY						272-0083
	Royal Oak MI						546-8424
	Sacramento CA						923-4328
	St. Louis MO						436-3333
	St. Paul MN							223-3445
	Salt Lake City UT					974-2500
	San Antonio TX						650-1630
	San Diego CA						491-0014
	San Fernando Valley Area	  (818) 908-0130
	San Franciso CA						695-8760
	San Jose CA							436-9745
	Santa Ana CA						662-0681
	Santa Barbara CA					963-7379
	Seattle WA							284-3302
	Sonoma and Marin County Area
		(ZIPs 949, 954, 955)		  (707) 778-5400
	Spokane WA							459-0371
	Tacoma WA							756-5978
	Tampa FL							879-1600
	Tulsa OK							599-1170
	Washington DC						526-3920
	West Palm Beach FL					697-2100
	Wichita KS							945-3748

2.	United Parcel Services does now have a 1-800 number to answer
	questions.  The number is: 1-800-782-7892.

	A.	An update on the above (sent by UPS) is the following:

		Try the following call: 1-800-222-8333

		Ask to receive the UPS Air Service Guide, the How to
		Use UPS manual, and the UPS International Air Service
		Guide. For completeness, you may also want the
		Hazardous Materials Shipping Guide.

		If they ask, tell them that you are the traffic
		manager at a manufacturing company and that you are
		thinking of switching carriers.

	B.	An update presented to me on 11/2/95 by drducky@bway.net
		is:

		Now you can use the WWW to track your packages.
		Connect to:

		http://www.ups.com/tracking/tracking.html

		and follow the instructions.

		Other things of interest are found at:

		www.ups.com/contents/contents.html

3.	Federal Express has two 1-800 numbers which customers can
	call to get information about their services.

	FedEx Information Number:	(USA)	1-800-238-5355
								(Other)	1-800-247-4747


	A.	From chargers@netcom.com comes this:

		Not sure if you are aware of the http://www.fedex.com
		site.  Here, you can track packages and find
		out pretty much about anything you want to
		know about FedEx and their services.  You can
		also track your packages via email at
		track@fedex.com by sending there with the body
		containing only "Airbill xxxxbillnumberxx"
		And then there's the FedEx software that you
		can install on your own PC to track and ship
		packages. The good thing about all these
		technologies is:  They are free for the asking.

4.	DHL uses a two tone approach.  Information is usually gotten
	through a local office while orders are processed through
	either the local office or a 1-800 number.  For you, this
	means you must (as with UPS) look up the number in your phone
	book (in Houston the number is 443-8500).

5.	Emery has a world wide toll free number which you can call to get
	information about their services.

	Emery Information Number:	1-800-443-6379

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How to wrap packages...

All of the above carriers agree in this area.  WRAP YOUR PACKAGES AS
IF EVERYTHING WERE MADE OF GLASS.  If you follow these outlines, then
you are going to strengthen your case when it comes time to prove
that the carrier damaged the item rather than the person who sent the
package or the person who received the package.

1.	Rules of breakage.
	A.	If the item you are going to send would normally
		break if dropped from a height of four feet (ie: waist high
		on a six foot tall person), then you need to have at least two
		inches (2") of protection on ALL sides of the item.
		Protection can consist of:
		1)	Foam molding
		2)	Styrofoam peanuts
		3)	Styrofoam half shells
		4)	Shredded newspaper*
		5)	Crushed newspaper (ie:Balled up)*

		*-Be sure to fill the bottom of the container
		and then shake the container to settle the newspaper.
		Then fill it with more if necessary.

	B.	If the item is non-flexible (such as a circuit board,
		something made of glass, or other rigid items, the item
		should, in addition to PART A above, be wrapped in one of
		the following:
		1)	Bubble plastic
		2)	Some kind of plastic wrap which has additional
			packing between the wrap and the item.  The
			easiest way in which to do this is to use a
			plastic garbage bag (appropriate to the
			item's size).  Open the bag, put in your
			insulating material (See part A), insert the
			item, and then place more material around the
			item.  Finally, using a good shipping tape
			(paper or otherwise), close the garbage bag.*

		*-	The idea behind the extra wrap is to insure that
		the fragile item will not be broken.  Packing not
		secured to the item by tape or other means could
		allow the item to work its way to the edge of the
		container where it gets broken.  This type of packing
		(ie:Not securing the packing around the item) would
		be considered bad packing on the part of the shipper
		and would not be covered by insurance in many cases.

	C.	If the item can withstand being dropped from a height of
		four feet or higher, then only one inch of insulation
		is usually required.  However, two inches should
		still be used.  It is always better to be safe than
		sorry.

	D.	Be sure that your container can withstand having other
		packages set on top of it.  Flimsy containers will
		not be covered by whatever insurance you purchase at
		the time.  Check the weight rating of the container
		(usually stamped somewhere on the box by the
		manufacturer) and act accordingly.  Remember!  The
		heavier your item, the more sturdy the box.  A good
		rule of thumb is to multiply the weight of your item
		by ten pounds to find the weight capacity your
		container should support.  An example would be
		something which weighs ten pounds should be placed
		into a container which can withstand 100 pounds of
		weight.  Why?

		1)	Your container should be able to withstand up
			to ten times the weight of the item because
			your item will be packed according to size.
			Thus, the larger the container, the heavier
			those things which will be packed on top of
			your container.  Sometimes, as many as ten
			items can be placed on top of your package.

2.	Labeling the box...
	A.	With the US Mail, you should always place your name and
		address as well as the name and address of the person
		you are sending the package to on at least two
		surfaces of the container.  This insures that if the
		first set of information is lost, then the second set
		can be used.  Further, you should place a slip of
		paper inside of the box with your name and address
		and the name and address of the person to whom the
		package is being delivered as an added precaution.

	B.	With UPS, the same precautions should be taken when
		shipping a package as you do with the US Mail.

	C.	With FedEx, a single multi-part form is used to tell
		everything about the package to be sent.  This
		multi-part form is kept inside of a clear plastic
		wrapper which is attached to the container.  It is
		still a good idea to put a piece of paper inside of
		the package, but I have never heard of anyone who
		shipped via FedEx receiving a box which had been
		opened in order to know who to ship the item to.

	D.	DHL

	E.	Emery
		Emery uses the same method as FedEx when dealing with
		packages.  A single form is attached to the box and
		is not removed until the shipment has been
		delivered.

3. Closing the box...

	A.	Rothstei@mcs.kent.edu pointed out that there wasn't
		a section on closing the box.  He was right!  His
		suggestion was:

		Every seam must be covered with postal-approved
		tape; if the parcel is being sent registered/
		certified, the tape must admit writing on it.
		The US Mail will stamp the tape to make sure
		nobody removes and replaces it.

		1)	Postal approved tape is any tape which
			is either paper based (usually brown
			in color) or of the clear plastic
			variety.  Colored tape is discouraged
			as certain colors are used by the Post
			Office to help them transfer the mail
			from one location to another.

	B.	Rothstei@mcs.kent.edu further pointed out that
		packages should not be tied with string.  This
		is because the current technology which the
		US Post Office uses would not be able to handle
		the string.  Also, string does not hold a box
		together too well.

4. Various methods of shipping...
	There are several ways in which to ship an item from
	point A to point B.  These are:

	A.	The US Mail.  The US Mail has several ways in
		which to ship things to and from you.
		1)	1st Class.  This is almost the same
			as air mail and will (most times)
			arrive at the same time as all
			(non-overnight) air mail.  This is
			because a lot of time first class mail
			is sent in the same air plane as air
			mail.  Only if there isn't sufficient
			room on the airplane will 1st class
			then be sent via trucks (ground).
			You can expect slow downs around the
			major holidays.  Otherwise, 1st Class
			is usually quite adequate for most
			shippings.

		2)	2nd Class.  2nd class mail is pretty much the
			same as 1st class, except it doesn't get as
			high of a priority as 1st class.  In other
			words:If there is room on an airplane for
			some mail, then 1st class comes first, then
			2nd, then 3rd, etc....
			A)	From the MIT Media Laboratory this note
				came through: Priority mail (i.e., "2
				day" service) can take up to a week,
				especially if the package is going a
				long way (so don't get antsy if your
				seller said s/he shipped and you
				haven't got the goodies yet).

		3)	3rd Class (Bulk mail).  This is the slowest
			(and cheapest) way of sending items via the
			US Mail.  This mail also goes by the cheapest
			method available.  In most cases, this means
			shipping via ground transport.  When you
			really want to tick someone off - send it 3rd
			class mail.  I had something arrive a month
			after buying it because of this. :)

		4)	Air Mail.  Fast, usually overnight, mailing.
			Some times it may take as long as a week to
			receive air mail.  It depends upon what kind
			of transportation is available and how many
			times a week it runs.

		5)	2nd Day Air Mail.  Again, like Air Mail, this
			mail can take up to a week to be delivered.
			It all depends upon how many times a week the
			mail is shipped via airplane.  It has been
			noted that NOW the US Mail will point out
			when and where 2nd Day Air Mail can not be
			sent.  Obviously someone talked with them
			about this.

		6)	Overnight Air Mail.  Like the name says.
			This type of mailing is supposed to
			get to the other person by the next
			day.  This is NOT always true.  Again,
			it depends upon how many runs there
			are each week for a particular town.
			Large cities (like New York), will
			get their packages overnight.  People
			stuck out in the middle of no where
			may get their packages in two to three
			days.

		7)	From the MIT Media Laboratory this note on
			USPS's COD:USPS COD can take three to four
			weeks to return the check to the sender.

	B.	UPS has 1st Class, Bulk (3rd Class), Overnight,
		(The Following is from UPS itself) Next day Air
		Second day Air, Ground, Ground Saver, Hundredweight,
		Ground Track ARS, Consignee Billing, and many more
		which I don't know off the top of my head, for
		example all of the International services Express,
		Expedited, Standard, Cargo etc.


	C.	FedEx is exclusively overnight.  Any time, any where.
		I have heard of FedEx hiring and sending special
		couriers to extremely out of the way places.  Their
		guarantee is that if the package is even 60 seconds
		late - you get your money back.  So they are VERY
		serious about getting the package to you on time.

	D.	DHL

	E.	Emery

5.	Options offered...
	There are several options you can choose when sending a
	package somewhere.

	A.	The US Mail has the following:
		1)	Normal mailing.  Nothing special, no extra costs.

		2)	Certified.  Something is certified if it costs
			less than $1,000.00.  You pay a differential
			for anything over the first $100.00.

		3)	Insured.  For things which cost more than
			$1,000.00, the US Mail will allow you to
			insure it IF, you can provide proof (like a
			sales receipt) for the item and some way in
			which they can double check the value of the
			item.

		4)	C.O.D. or Collect on Delivery.  The US Mail
			will allow you to send things through the
			mail with the intent to collect some sort of
			monetary recompense from whoever is given the
			package.

		5)	Return Receipt.  A return receipt can be
			requested.  This is helpful in determining
			whether or not a package was picked up.

	B.	UPS
		UPS offers the same types of service as the US Mail
		does.  The only difference is that the names have
		been changed.  In other words - if you say you want
		to send something Certified it is not called
		"Certified Mail".  The same holds true for the rest
		of the names.  I suppose it has something to do with
		keeping UPS separate from the US Mail.  I simply find
		it a pain in the rear to have to know each company's
		various names for things.

	C.	FedEx
		1)	Domestic Services (US)
			A)	FedEx Priority Overnight Service.  Delivery
				by 10:30am, next day, in their AA areas.  By
				noon in their AM areas.

			B)	FedEx Standard Overnight Service.  By 3:00pm
				the next business day in their AA areas.  By
				4:30pm in their AM areas.  Not for Saturday
				services.

			C)	FedEx Economy Two-Day Service.  Delivered by
				4:30pm the second business day.

		2)	FedEx International Services
			A)	International Priority Service.
				Customs-cleared, door-to-door
				delivery of documents and packages up
				to 150lbs.  Typically in 1, 2, or 3
				days.

			B)	International Priority Plus.  Overnight delivery
				of documents and packages up to 70lbs from New
				York City to major European cities.

			C)	International Priority Distribution Service.
				Customs-cleared, door-to-door delivery of
				bulk shipments to multiple international
				consignees.

			D)	FedEx International MailService.  Speedy, cost-
				effective delivery of international mail to
				Europe, Asia, Canada, Latin America, the
				Middle East, Australia, and Africa.

			E)	FedEx International Priority Broker Selection
				Option.  A service that lets you choose the
				broker you want them to work with on handling
				your International Priority Shipment.

		3)	FedEx Freight Services
			A)	FedEx Overnight Freight Service.  Next-business-
				day freight service to destinations in the
				continental U.S. and Alaska.

			B)	FedEx Two-Day Freight Service.  Second-business-
				day delivery of freight within the continental
				U.S., Alaska, and Oahu, Hawaii.

			C)	FedEx International EXPRESS freight Service.
				Flexible, time-definite delivery, typically in
				1, 2, or 3 days, of virtually any size freight
				shipment in the U.S. and major world markets.

			D)	FedEx International Airport-to-Airport Cargo
				Service.  Economical airport-to-airport
				international delivery typically in 2-4 days.

			E)	SeaTiger Service.  FedEx all-cargo planes are
				available under contract for a single day or
				long-term use.

			F)	Flying Tigers Air Cargo Services - Live Animal
				Service.  Live-animal cargo services on a
				worldwide, airport-to-airport basis.

		4)	FedEx Special Services.
			A)	Saturday Service.  Delivery, drop-off, pickup,
				and more.

			B)	Hold at FedEx Location Service.  When you
				prefer to pick it up yourself.

			C)	Dangerous Goods.

			D)	Collect on Delivery Services.

		5)	Notes
			A)	There are modifications to the above
				if you are not within the forty-eight states.

	D.	DHL

	E.	Emery
		1)	United States/Canada.
			A)	Same Day Services.  Requires advanced
				notice that you wish to use this service.

			B)	Next Day AM Service.  Any size, any
				weight shipment delivered by noon the
				next business day.

			C)	Next Day PM Service.  Predictable,
				reliable delivery by 5pm the next
				business day.

			E)	Second Day Service.  Delivery no later
				than 5pm the second business day after
				pickup.

		2)	International
			A)	Express Service. Door-to-door delivery
				service.

			B)	Preferred Service.  Airport-to-airport
				delivery.

			C)	Standard-Plus Service.  Door-to-door
				service for consolidated international
				shipments.

			D)	Standard Service.  Airport-to-airport
				delivery of your less time-critical
				shipments.

		3)	Special Services
			A)	Emery Customs Brokers.  Import and
				export brokerage service.

			B)	Air Charter Service.  The arrangement
				of transportation of any size shipment
				on virtually any size aircraft.

			C)	Warehouse Inventory System Express.
				Inventory management control system.

			D)	Consignee Assistance Program.  Service
				to pay special attention to in bound
				shipments (both domestic and international).

			E)	Gemini PC System.  A system for preparing
				manifests, airbills, labels, and management
				reports.

			F)	Transportation Protection Services.  Total
				security protection for extremely valuable
				and fragile shipments.

			G)	Free Domicile Service.  Consolidates all
				charges into one invoice (including customs
				brokerage, duty, and delivery).

			H)	Dangerous Goods Shipping.  Special shipments
				of hazardous goods.

			I)	Perishables Shipping.  Special shipments to
				handle perishable goods.

			J)	IATA Agent Service.  For shipments that have
				to travel via IATA carrier.  They handle all
				reservations, documentation, pickup, and
				delivery.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

And now in this ring...

Finally, after getting to see all of the possible options which these
companys (and governmental agencies) have to offer - we have the best
ways in which to conduct business over the network.

1.	The basics

	A.	The first thing you should always remember to do, when
		buying something over the network is to get the following
		information:

		1)	The person's REAL name.
		2)	The person's REAL home address.
			A)	The street address*
			B)	The city
			C)	The state
			D)	The zipcode

			*-If the person gives you a P.O.Box number, then
			this could be the start of a rip off scheme.  Remember
			to insist on a regular, non-P.O. Box number.  If they
			refuse, then proceed with caution.

		3)	The person's home phone number.
		4)	The person's work phone number (if possible).  This
			might not be possible as some people do not wish to
			have other people call them at work.
		5)	The person's e-mail address.  This should be fairly
			easy since this is how you contacted them in the
			first place.

	B.	The second thing you should do is to insure the other
		person gets YOUR information.  One of the worst things
		you can do is to build a wall between yourself and
		the other person.  One of the easiest ways to do this
		is by making demands of the other person you yourself
		are not willing to submit to.

	C.	Be sure to get, in writing, exactly what it is you are
		purchasing.  If you do not, you only have yourself to
		blame when what comes to you isn't what you thought it
		was going to be.

	D.	On items costing more than $100.00, you should at least
		take the step of verifying the person's existence.  To
		do this you would:
		1)	Call 1-(the area code)-555-1212.
		2)	Give the operator the city, person's name, and
			address as given to you.  DO NOT give the operator
			the phone number.  Ask them for it.  Compare this
			number to the number given to you by the person.
			If they aren't the same then write down the new
			number.
		3)	If the numbers aren't the same, then
			your next step is to give the operator
			the number you do have and tell her
			that that number was given to you by
			the person at that address.  Ask the
			operator to look up the address for
			that number too.  Take it down.
		4)	Thank the operator and hang up.  The operator
			has helped you as much as they can.
		5)	If the address and phone number matched, then
			there is nothing else for you to do in this
			section.  Go on to the next part.
		6)	If the address and phone number did
			not match, then you have a problem.
			Something somewhere is not right.
			Your best bet is to then send an e-mail
			address to the person asking them why
			the number they gave you is for one
			address and the address given by the
			operator is another.  Or why any of
			the other possible combination of
			things has occurred.  Do this, if you
			can, without malice, contempt, hatred,
			or anything of a similar nature.
			There could a perfectly valid reason
			why they asked you to send a check/money
			order to another location.  All you
			are trying to do is to determine the
			"WHY" of this.  You aren't there to
			accuse the person of wrong doing.
		7)	Once you have gotten your information, then make
			a decision (based on the person's reason) whether
			to continue or to stop the transaction.

	E.	The last thing to do is to sit back, take a deep breath,
		and consider everything before you proceed.  Many times
		people simply rush into a network transaction without
		thinking things through.  You should consider the
		following:

		1)	Most network transactions take WEEKS to complete.
			A)	First there is the initial contact period.
			B)	Arrangements are made.
			C)	Then money is sent.  Usually in the form of
				a check of some kind.
				1>	It usually takes three days minimum for
					a check to reach someone.
				2>	It takes a minimum of three days for a
					check to clear the bank.

			D)	Then the item is sent.
				1>	It takes three to five days for most
					packages to reach their destination.

			E)	In some cases, then additional money is
				sent.

			*-	As you can see, the normal net transaction
				can take anywhere from ten to twenty days
				to transact.  This is not a fast process.
				In addition, many of the people on the net
				are students.  This too can cause delays.
				Especially when you are trying to get
				something and finals are coming up.

		2)	As noted above, many of the people on the net
			are students.  You can run into many problems
			when dealing with students.  This is NOT because
			students are terribly wicked people.  It IS
			because:
			A)	Students have their studies to do which are
				important to them.  Many times, these people
				are heavily overburdened by their professors
				with things to do and they simply do not
				have the time to go to the post office, stand
				in line, and mail a package.  Dropping off
				a check is different.  All you have to do
				is to make out the deposit slip and drop it
				into the night deposit.  This is why so many
				times you hear about someone who had time to
				cash the check, but not send the item.  There
				is a BIG difference between the two actions
				but most people do not understand this.  And
				yes, the student should mail the item out as
				quickly as they can.  But that is a Utopian
				ideal and real life intrudes quite quickly
				in these kinds of situations.

			B)	Students have tests.  Everyone knows this,
				but for some reason this knowledge goes out
				the window when dealing with students a lot
				of times.  Simply remember to ASK if they
				are taking classes and if it is going to be
				to much trouble for them to ship the item.
				If so - don't buy it from them.  Or wait
				until a better time frame comes along.  This
				is especially true around finals and midterms.
				Neither test is usually easy.  And placing an
				additional burden on the student doesn't
				help.  In fact, it could wind you up in a
				position where they take your money and don't
				send you anything because you've made them mad.

			C)	Universities, colleges, and even the lower
				schools ALWAYS delete their old accounts and
				create new accounts at the beginning of each
				semester.  Now, I'm not talking about facility
				and staff accounts - those do not change.  I'm
				talking about the normal student accounts.
				The schools do this so abuse of their computer
				systems (ie:Someone who took a class six years
				ago may try to use the computer) doesn't occur.
				Semesters go from January to May/June, June to
				July, July to August, and August to December.
				>>>IF<<< you start talking with someone about
				buying something near the end of one of these
				semesters you might want to wait to conclude
				the transaction until after the new accounts
				have been issued.  In this way, you avoid
				buying something from someone who then just
				disappears - never to be heard from again.

			*-	Please DO use common sense when dealing with
				such things as end-of-semester times, semester
				lengths, and account stability.  Different places
				are different!  No two places ever act the same.
				So again - ASK.  It is the only way to find out.

		3)	Real life, unfortunately, oftens intrudes into a
			network transaction.  Myself, I was to send a few
			items out but did not get them out the door before
			my marriage.  When I returned two weeks later, it
			was to find indignant e-mailings piled up.  Even
			though I had mailed to each and every person that
			I was getting married and might not be able to
			mail everything out on time.  Things were quickly
			straightened out, but I believe the point has been
			made.  Accidents, deaths, work, and other such
			emergencies can intrude quite quickly where they
			are not wanted.  Further, when such a thing happens,
			the person on the other end is often left dangling
			(usually for several weeks at a time).  I'm not
			going to say you shouldn't get mad (because I would),
			but I will say that you should at least try to
			find out what happened to the person before sounding
			a bugle call.  After all, if you DID get the person's
			home phone number (You DID do that didn't you? ;) ),
			then all you have to do is call them.  BTW:You DID
			verify that phone number didn't you?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

The transaction - or "Did I buy that thing?"...

1.	There are as many ways to handle a transaction as there are
	transactions.  No single way will ever mean you won't get
	burned in a deal you make over the net.  None.  The only
	thing that you CAN do is to try your best to insure that
	both you _and_ the other person get what they want.  In
	other words - make this be a transaction where you _both_
	win.  If you can work at it from that angle, many times
	people who might otherwise rip you off won't.  So how do
	you conduct business over the net?

	A.	There are two main ways in which business is conducted
		over the net.  Money first, and item first.  With the
		"money first" deal the buyer sends their money to the
		seller first and then waits for their item to come.  This
		is the usual way in which business is conducted.  The
		second method is the "item first".  With this method
		it is the seller who must wait for their money.  This
		is not the usual way in which businesses work.  Let's
		explore each of these methods.

2.	Money First.
	Buyer sends money to seller who then sends item to buyer.

	A.	Problems.
		The main problem with this approach is that the buyer
		can easily become a victim of the seller.  There are
		many types of scenarios which can be built.  But
		mainly the buyer sends the money to the seller who
		then does something with the money (looses check,
		cashes check but doesn't send item, etc...).

	B.	How to protect yourself (Buyer).
		There are several things you can do to help protect yourself
		from being taken by the seller.
		1)	Get their correct name, address, and phone number.
		2)	Use only a traceable method of payment (ie:No cash).
			A)	Personal check**
			B)	Cashier's check*
			C)	Traveller's check*
			D)	Money order*

			*-	Retain the copy for your records.
			**-	Personal checks are the preferred method of payment
				because you will receive the check back after it
				has cleared.  It is proof that the other person
				did accept the cash for whatever item it is you
				are attempting to purchase.

		3)	When you send the money, send it certified and ask
			for a return receipt.  This will force the person to
			sign for the item and will (again) be something you
			can use as evidence in case you have to go to court.

	C.	How to protect yourself (Seller).
		Here are some things you can do to help protect yourself
		as a seller of items.
		1)	Get your customer's name, address, and phone number.
		2)	Accept the customer's method of payment and then
			allow the appropriate number of days for the payment
			to clear (ie:Wait three to five days).
			A)	Call your bank after three days to see
				if the item has cleared.  If not, ask
				them how long it will take and get
				back with your customer about it.
				Under federal law, all banks are
				supposed to clear checks drawn on a
				US bank after three business days.
				The important thing though, is to
				simply make sure your customer knows
				what is going on.
			B)	If your bank can not get the money, then contact
				the person back and let them know what has
				happened.  Get their reason and if it turns
				out that they can not buy the item after all,
				simply thank them, send them back their check
				as soon as the bank sends it back to you, and
				find someone else to purchase your goods.  Don't
				argue about it.  It doesn't help matters and
				all you've wasted is some of your time.

		3)	Always send things certified, return
			receipt, and/or insured.  In this way
			you know for certain that the item
			arrived at the person's house and was
			accepted by them.

		4)	Never leave a customer hanging.  After you receive
			your return receipt, be sure to e-mail the person
			back again.  First off because it leaves the person
			feeling that you care.  Secondly because it allows
			you the chance to see if there is anything else
			you can do for them (and may lead to more sales).

3.	Item First.
	This is commonly called sending something C.O.D..

	A.	Protecting the Buyer.

		1)	The buyer is fairly well protected in most cases.
			The main times when a buyer is in jeopardy is when
			the carrier will not allow the buyer to examine the
			goods before paying for them.  Then the buyer has
			to buy something without seeing it first.  Again,
			the best method for circumventing this problem is
			to use a personal check, cashier's check, traveller's
			check, or money order.  All of the above can be
			canceled if it turns out that the box contained
			a bunch of rocks instead of what was expected.

	B.	Protecting the Seller.

		1)	In C.O.D. transactions, it is the seller who is
			assuming most of the risks.  First off is the
			risk of damage in transit.  Secondly is risk of
			the buyer deciding not to buy the item after it
			arrives.  Lastly is the problem of the buyer
			cancelling their check after accepting the
			package.  These are all drawbacks to sending
			things C.O.D..  Further, there is no easy way
			in which to circumvent any of these
			problems.  Therefore, C.O.D. is discouraged
			for most, if not all, transactions.

		2)	The only protection you have, as a seller, is
			the person's word.  In a true C.O.D. transaction,
			you are betting that:
			A)	The person is honest.
			B)	The person will have the money, on hand (or
				they will have a check) to pay the carrier.

			If either of the above is not true - then you
			are left out in the cold.  Some people have
			said C.O.D. was never meant to be used by
			private concerns.  I don't know.  I only know
			that it places all of the control in the buyer's
			corner without any regard for the seller.  Some
			people may like that - I don't.  I'd much rather
			there was a 50/50 approach (which there is but it
			is a very slow process).

4.	Notes on what we've said so far.

	Both methods of shipping have their drawbacks.  Both methods
	lean towards one person or the other (ie: buyer or seller).
	So which one is best?  Well, from past experience I'd have to
	say neither.  Both have their bad spots.  The real problem
	usually comes from the time aspect more than the method of
	transport.  Many people expect next day service from an
	individual.  Or, in other words, many people treat
	individuals as if they were running a store or were some sort
	of a retail outlet.  They demand immediate gratification
	when, in truth, net transactions _should_ be conducted in a
	somewhat slower manner.  So one of the things which you
	should be on the look out for is someone who is pushy when it
	comes to time.  If someone contacts you and says they have
	a time frame problem then you should get a good explanation
	from them.  Failure to do so could cause you to loose money
	or goods.

5.	The third alternative: 50/50.

	There is a third alternative to shipping items.  It is
	nothing new but it works and works well.  It is called the
	50/50 shipment.  The way it works is the buyer sends half of
	the payment to the seller who then sends the equipment to the
	buyer via C.O.D. for the rest of the money.  The nice thing
	about this is that the buyer commits only half of their money
	to the transaction.  Once the check has cleared, the seller
	then has to send the item to the buyer in order for him to
	get the rest of his money.  This method has a number of
	advantages to simply sending something to someone.  First, it
	allows the seller to see whether or not the buyer is going to
	actually buy the item.  Secondly, it only makes the buyer
	have to come up with half of the cash needed in order to buy
	the item (the rest is paid when the item arrives).  Thirdly,
	in the case of either person disappearing, it means that the
	other person is only out half of their money.

	A.	The nice thing about the 50/50 approach is that the
		buyer and seller can settle on an amount to send initially,
		and then the rest is due when the item comes.  You can
		use 25/75, 50/50, 66/34, or whatever percentage you want
		to use with the same results.

6.	Another alternative sent to me via e-mail:

	From: cleveland.Freenet.Edu

	One addition that I'll throw out, when verifying a person's
	existence, an excellent on-line resource is the internet
	sled.  The only way you can get in the database is by making
	a personal check out to the company that runs it, they verify
	the name on the check to the name you entered in the
	database, also they keep a tally of how long your account has
	existed.  You can get information via email at
	sled@drebes.com with 'info' as a subject.

	I think it's worth mentioning.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Transactions - "When should I use what?"

1.	Money First.
	This is a good way to send anything which has a value of
	up to $500.00.  Anything over the $500.00 mark should, to
	protect the interest of both the buyer and seller, be
	dealt with via the 50/50 method.

2.	Item First.
	This method should only be used with items which cost
	less than or equal to $100.00.  For things costing more
	than $100.00 it is advisable to either switch to the Money
	First method or the 50/50 method.

3.	50/50.
	Because this method takes so much time, it should be
	regulated to those purchases where the cost is greater
	than $500.00.

4.	Notes.
	Any of the above methods can be used by anyone anytime.
	These are only suggestions. Any of the above methods
	can be made to work.  It is just a question of how
	much ground work will you do before beginning.  If you
	do the basic things (ie:Get a full name, address, etc...)
	then almost any of the above methods will work.  Some
	work better than others - but they all will work.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Transactions - "What if they don't want to send it the way I want them
				to?"

1.	Your first alternative is to simply not deal with them.  There
	are hundreds of other people out there who WILL work with you
	through the method you prefer.  If you do not feel right using
	another method - then tell them so and give them the chance to
	work with you in your method of shipping.  If they do not want
	to do so, then thank them and tell them you would rather find
	someone else who will let you ship in the manner you've chosen.

2.	Your second alternative is to let them know that you would rather
	use a method you are familiar with.  If they are adamant about
	using a different method, then go back to #1.

3.	Your third alternative is to go with the way they wish to conduct
	business.  Be sure to get all of the information as outlined
	in the other section and then proceed cautiously.  If things
	start going wrong then tell the other person your concerns
	and try to reach a common ground of understanding.  If you can
	not do that then return to #2 and finally to #1.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Transactions - "I'VE BEEN RIPPED OFF!"

1.	As has been said before: Be sure you aren't jumping the gun
	before you begin yelling that you have been ripped off.
	There are MANY ways in which communications can become
	tangled.  Always assume the problem is a communications
	problem first and a person problem second.  In other words,
	try to talk with the person about the problem first - before
	assuming they are trying to rip you off.  Further, when you
	e-mail them (or call them), don't use finger-pointing tactics
	("YOU said you'd mail it today!"), accusatory remarks,
	remarks which put the person "on the spot", or other such
	things.  Instead, assume something came up and they have not
	had the time to do whatever it is they were supposed to do.
	State your problems in a manner which will convey your
	concern without attacking the other person(ex:  "I was
	surprised the other day to see that the X hasn't made it here
	yet.  Has there been a problem with shipping it?").  You would
	be amazed at how much more can be accomplished when you
	treat someone else with the respect due them instead of
	something like "You M***** F*****!!!!  Where is my g** d***
	X!!!!?  I sent you my money over five weeks ago!"

2.	If you HAVE been ripped off (ie:You've tried for three
	weeks to contact the person without success [Two week
	vacations are fairly common - so three weeks are needed]),
	then here are the steps you should follow to try to get
	your money back.  They are listed in increasing order of
	harshness.

	A.	Send a simple, non-verbally abusive letter to the
		person stating that you have tried to contact them
		and that since they do not wish to communicate with
		you you are going to have to pursue other avenues
		of communication.  Wait two days before proceeding
		further.  Be sure to keep a copy of your e-mail to
		them.

	B.	Call them.  If they have an answering machine then
		leave a message stating when you called and when
		they can call you as well as a phone number to
		reach you at.  Give them a day.  Call them back
		again on the second day if they haven't called
		you back.  Repeat this three times.  Make a note
		of when you called somewhere for future references.

	C.	Send a message to the sysop/sysadmin of their system.
		Advise this person of what the other person has done.
		Let them know you would appreciate their help in
		this matter and then give them the details of what
		has happened.  Use the person's full name, address,
		and e-mail information.  Again, be sure not to be
		inflammatory - it doesn't help.  Instead, give
		dates and times so the sysop/sysadmin can verify
		everything.  If they say they can't do anything,
		then simply thank them and forget about them.  You've
		notified them there is a problem with one of the
		people who hold accounts on their system - if they
		don't want to help then don't push it.  You'll only
		make them mad and have two people to deal with
		instead of one.  You've got enough problems don't
		you?  Don't create more of them.
		1)	Give this person a week to do something and
			then contact them back.  If they are able to
			help - a week is more than enough time for
			them to have done something.

	D.	The next step is to make a call to the long distance
		operator again (1-[area code]-555-1212) and ask them
		for the main police number for that area.  Take it
		down and call them.  Tell them the following:

		1)	"Hi, my name is <your name>.  I have been trying
			to get in touch with <their name> at <their
			address> for the past few weeks with no luck.
			Could an officer be dispatched to contact <their
			name> and ask them to get in touch with me?  I'm
			concerned that something may have happened to them."

		This should definitely get some sort of a response
		out of them.  Probably a negative one. :/

	E.	The next step to take is to make a call to the police
		department again.  Tell them:

		1)	"Hi, my name is <your name>.  I have a complaint
			against <their name>.  I sent <their name> <amount
			of money> for <item>.  They have failed to answer
			my mail and phone calls.  I would like an officer
			to stop by their house and ask them to please
			get in touch with me."

		Remember to give them your phone number so they can
		call you back if they need to as well as so they can
		give your phone number to the person.

	F.	If you have reached this point, then you need to stop
		and ask yourself if it is worth it to continue.  Most
		of the things coming up are going to cost you time and
		money.  The question you have to ask is: Will it cost
		me more to get back the money than it will to simply
		forget about the money?  If the answer is "It will cost
		me more to try to get my money back", then you might
		want to simply forget about the money, write the person's
		name down somewhere, and never deal with them again.
		Otherwise - keep reading.

	G.	Contact your local Post Office and obtain the form from
		them which deals with mail fraud.  Fill the form out
		completely and send it in.  An investigation of this
		sort usually takes between six months and six years.
		But it is a start.

	H.	Contact your local FCC office and ask for the form
		which deals with abuses of the telecommunication
		channels.  Don't bring up all of your problems with
		the person on the other end.  Simply tell them that
		there is someone who, using a communication's device
		(Internet), has bought/sold an item from/to you but you
		have never received the item/payment from them and that
		you would like to file a complaint against them.

	I.	Call the operator again and ask for the number to the
		local bar association.  Call them.  Ask them to refer
		you to an attorney to represent you against the person.
		This will mean that you will have to go to court
		there unless you can get the court to change the
		location to being in your city.  They might do this
		if you can show that you have been trying, in good faith,
		to reach the person without success.  Then it is the
		other person who has to come to you - rather than
		you to them.

	J.	Everything past this point is only for those people
		who are so obnoxious or evil that they would rather
		dance upon your grave than give you either the
		money back or the item.  Be forewarned that these
		things are not nice things to do to people and you
		should not do them unless there is no other avenue
		of escape.

	K.	If the person becomes abusive in their dealings with
		you, DO NOT sink to their level and do the same
		thing.  Instead, keep copies of what they send and
		make printouts.  Take these printouts and GO to the
		nearest FBI headquarters.  Don't call them.  Most
		FBI HQs get hundreds of calls a day which they do
		not do anything about.  If, instead, you take the
		letters with you to their HQ, they will sit down
		and talk with you about the problem.  They may also
		suggest other avenues (such as one of the things
		talked about above) to pursue getting your money
		back (or item).

3.	Notes.
	There is one more thing you can do to the person.  But it is
	a nasty trick to pull on someone and can ruin their lives.
	So I'm not going to tell you what it is or how to do it.  The
	above should be more than enough for most people.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Final Thoughts....

1.	Remember to always give the other person the benefit of the
	doubt.  Someday you might be in their place wishing someone
	would do the same for you.

2.	Remember to keep copies of all letters.  This helps to keep
	people from saying "I didn't say that" and other such statements.
	If you have what they wrote, then they can't deny having written
	it.

3.	Remember to always get ALL of the information about the other
	person before dealing with them.  There is nothing worse than
	only having an e-mail address after having sent something to
	to someone.

4.	Always send things certified, return receipt, and insured.  No
	matter if you send C.O.D. or not.  In this way you are protected
	against the carrier damaging your merchandise and you know, for
	a fact, that the person received the item.

I hope this net.book helps everyone.  Like I said at the beginning,
all comments are welcome so long as they aren't flames and they
provide constructive suggestions to help improve the book.

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